Instructions: This cake can be made in 2 9-inch cake pans or one sheet cake pan 9 x 13 inches. For a gala you can split the 2 layers into 4, filling them with whipped cream, fresh raspberries, and shavings of semi-sweet chocolate.

Prepare pans: Spread solid shortening on bottom and sides of pan(s), then dust evenly with unsweetened cocoa or flour; tap out excess cocoa or flour.

Position shelf in lower third of oven. Preheat oven to 325 F (165 C).

Sift together the flour, salt, nutmeg, and baking soda. Remove 1 tablespoon of flour mixture and set rest aside. Toss mini-chocolate chips with the tablespoon of flour mixture and set aside.

Melt the 4 ounces of unsweetened chocolate in the top pan of a double boiler set over hot, not boiling, water. Remove chocolate from heat, stir to make sure it is completely melted and smooth, then set aside to cool until comfortable to touch.

In the large bowl of an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Stop the mixer and scrape down the bowl and beaters several times. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

With the mixer on low, add the flour mixture and buttermilk alternately to batter, beginning and ending with flour. Stir in the vanilla and cooled chocolate, blending until the color is even. Stir in the mini- chocolate chips till evenly distributed.

Turn the mixture into the prepared pan(s). Smooth it level, then spread it slightly from the center toward the edges of the pan so it will rise evenly. Bake in the lower third of the oven for 40 to 50 minutes for the sheet cake, 35 to 45 minutes for layers, or until the top is lightly springy to the touch and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Leave the cake in its pan(s) on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Top with a second rack and invert; lift off pan(s). Cool the cake completely on the rack. (If splitting layers, use a serrated knife.) Fill and frost the layers. Or leave the sheet cake in its pan to cool, and frost and serve it from the pan, making 3-inch squares.

Quick Chocolate Buttercream Frosting: In an electric mixer or food processor, cream the butter until soft, then beat in the egg yolk if using it, the salt, and the vanilla. With the mixer on low speed or pulsing the processor, add about 1/4 cup of the sugar. Beat smooth. Beat in the chocolate. Alternately add cream and remaining sugar, blending smooth between additions. Use only as much cream as necessary to reach spreading consistency. Scrape down sides of bowl. Add more cream if too stiff.

Chill the icing to harden if too soft.

Makes about 2 1/2 cups, to fill and frost an 8- or 9-inch 2-layer cake.

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