Instructions: Per square mile, Mexico has more festivals, feast days and fairs than any other country. Virtually every day calls for a fiesta. The granddaddy of all fairs, or ferias, is the San Marcos National Fair, held annually from the second week in April to the first week in May. Its the biggest and oldest fair in Mexico.

The event, which draws up to 3 million visitors, began in 1604. It originally was called the Merchant Fair, as farmers established it as a means for trading produce, craft items and livestock. In 1848, the fair was given a permanent location near a church in the city of Aguascalientes and the event was renamed in honor of St. Mark the Evangelist. Despite the changes, most of the original activities and traditions from the merchant days remain, as well as many of the foods.

Locals still sell and trade their goods. Bullfights and cockfights also abound. But my preference is to enjoy the incredible mariachi bands and folkloric dancing. In recent years, modern attractions have been added to the mix, including IMAX films and pop concerts at local dance clubs. Nearby spas, featuring the soothing, warm waters of Aguascalientes, provide a relaxing break from the feria festivities.

Of course, no fair in Mexico would be complete without vendors selling wonderfully prepared foods, and San Marcos is no exception. In addition to kid favorites like ice cream and giant poufs of brightly colored cotton candy, local specialties such as mole poblano - roasted turkey seasoned in a rich unsweetened chocolate-based sauce - and chicken enchiladas are offered.

Aguascalientes is particularly famous for its chicken dishes. Fried chicken is often a much more complex, varied dish than what is found north of the border. For one version, simmered chicken is dipped into a cooked salsa that includes tomatoes, chicken stock, vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and oregano.

The chicken is then fried with potatoes in lard until crisp. When served, the chicken and potatoes are arranged on a plate with browned chorizo sausage, lettuce, sliced onion and pickled serrano chiles. The cooked salsa is then drizzled around the plate.

Ive adapted another version, pollo San Marcos, thats easier to prepare and lower in fat because the chicken is baked instead of fried. Patatas y chiles salteadas, or sauteed potatoes and chiles, makes for a delicious accompaniment.

Prepare extra for Sunday brunch, as the savory potatoes go great with huevos rancheros, omelets and other egg dishes.

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