Instructions: In ragtag crumbles or genteel chunks, feta cheese gives a frisky flavor edge to food. Its salty, sour-sweet sharpness gives a classic Greek salad its signature taste; romaine, olives, cucumbers and red onions would be just another salad without fetas tart earthiness.

Feta dates back thousands of years in Greece, where its made with goats milk or sheeps milk. Today, in America, it generally is made commercially with cows milk.

This rindless, bed-sheet-white cheese is cured and stored in a brine made with salt and either water or its own whey (the watery liquid that separates from the curd during the cheese-making process).

Brining stops the ripening process, keeping the cheese fresh and flavorful.

Because of this brining procedure, its often dubbed "pickled cheese." And because of the salt content of the brine, this cheese acts as a salty element in recipes, something to keep in mind when adding salt to those dishes.

About 264 calories for a 3 1/(2-ounce) serving (21 grams of fat), feta hovers midway between the higher-in-fat cheddars at 403 calories and the low-in-fat part-skim ricottas at 138 calories.

Feta can range in texture from soft to semidry, and "fetaphiles"

differ in their preferences. Made in Bulgaria, France, Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Romania and Italy, as well as Greece and America, products vary in texture as well as saltiness and tartness.

Here are some fast ways to use feta in everything from dip to tacos.

Feisty feta dip: Serve this with triangles of pita bread (toasted or plain)

and-or raw veggies.

Combine 1 cup sour cream (regular, reduced-fat or nonfat), 3/4 cup crumbled feta (plain or flavored), 3 minced green onions (include part of dark green stalks), 1 medium clove garlic (minced), 3 tablespoons minced Italian parsley, freshly ground black pepper (to taste), 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano (or generous 1/4 teaspoon dried) and 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme; mash with tines of fork.

Taste and add a little lemon juice, if desired. Garnish with pitted, imported black olives, such as kalamata.

Spinach salad topped with roasted peppers and feta fingers: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a small roasting pan or gratin dish with olive oil and place 8 to 10 (1- to 1 1/2 inch wide) strips of roasted and peeled red bell peppers in single layer (roast and peel at home or buy commercially prepared in jars).

Place a rectangle of feta (2 by 1/4 by 1/4 inches) in the center of each pepper strip. Top with 2 medium cloves garlic (minced), 2 tablespoons drained capers, 12 pitted black olives such as kalamata, 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano (or 1 teaspoon dried). Drizzle with 1/4 cup olive oil. Bake in preheated oven 12 to 14 minutes or until cheese is lightly browned.

Place a handful of cleaned baby spinach in four salad bowls. Place two cheese-topped pepper strips on each, spooning any mixture from pan over cheese.

Drizzle spinach with vinaigrette, made by combining 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1/3 cup olive oil, pinch of dried red pepper flakes, and salt and pepper to taste.

Easy omelet: A filling of flavored feta is the easiest and fastest way to add oomph to eggs. Try filling omelets with crumbled feta flavored with basil and sun-dried tomato. The trick is not to overdo it; for a two-egg omelet, use about 1 1/2 tablespoons crumbled cheese.

Taco toppers: Instead of the conventional queso fresco or shredded cheddar or Jack, use crumbled feta on top of tacos or taco salads.

Cheese-please pasta: Sometimes, when it comes to pasta concoctions, you want a sauce with flavor. This feta-enriched mixture can be prepared in advance and stored in the refrigerator several hours, well-sealed.

To make the sauce, mince 1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley, 2 teaspoons drained capers and 1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves (or 1/4 teaspoon dried). Place in bowl and stir in 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 1/4 teaspoon dried red chili flakes, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1 shallot (sliced into rings), 12 pitted, imported black olives, such as kalamata, and 4 ounces crumbled feta.

Toss sauce with 1 pound cooked, drained pasta, such as rotelle or penne (add a little pasta cooking water if you want a thinner sauce).

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Dont scrimp on shrimp: Grilled shrimp topped with a feta vinaigrette is luscious atop bruschetta (grilled French bread), rice or pasta.

To make it, marinate about 1 pound shelled shrimp in a mixture of 1/3 cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint; cover and chill one to two hours.

Meanwhile, soak bamboo skewers in water. Thread shrimp on skewers and grill two to four minutes over hot coals (or until cooked through), turning once.

Prepare a vinaigrette by combining 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, 3 tablespoons cider vinegar and a dash of garlic salt; toss with 3 ounces crumbled feta. Place shrimp on plate and spoon vinaigrette on top.

Wine-baked olives: For a terrific side dish with grilled meat, chicken or fish, or as a topping for rice, try these baked olives garnished with feta.

Place 1 pound imported black olives such as kalamata in a small saucepan and cover with water; bring to boil on high heat and boil one minute. Drain well.

Place olives, 1/2 cup dry red wine and 3 tablespoons olive oil in small, ovenproof dish. Bake 30 minutes in 350- degree oven, tossing two times during baking. Toss with 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon and 1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley. Sprinkle with 3 ounces crumbled feta. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Greek greens: No feta story would be complete without including a version of Greek salad (see in this collection). This one Greek-style salad works well for a buffet-style party:

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