Instructions: In choosing figs, hold out for maximum ripeness

THE first figs are picked in July, but I hold out for the later harvest, for the figs that have spent more time ripening in the heat of long summer days. They have a rich, sensual quality: sugary ripe and deep in flavor.

The skins of figs can be light green, black, brown, purple, light pink or a
variegated combination. When ripe, the flesh can be white, deep red, greenish, brown, purple or opal.

When choosing figs, reach for the ones that most others would leave behind.

If there is a slight crack in the skin at the blossom end, oozing with sweetness, the fig is ready to eat. Both the skin and interior should be soft. There is an aromatic, juicy, almost sticky-sweet quality that separates a fabulous fig from one that is simply good.

Figs originated in the Mediterranean, but it was natural that they would find their way to California, where the climate is similar. The first figs in California were grown by Franciscan monks in Southern California.

Although they are eaten fresh, Black Mission figs are grown primarily for drying. Production of this variety far exceeds that of such types as the greenish-yellow-skinned, violet-fleshed Kadota fig, the black-skinned Turkey fig or the more exotic Calimyrna or Smyrna figs.

Unfortunately, figs are often picked while still green and never possess the lovely qualities of a naturally ripened fruit. Shelf life takes precedence over flavor. But in high-end produce departments or farmers markets, you may be able to find figs grown and handled with care. Prices can be quite high.

In the Mediterranean, where ancient trees bear fruit that is consumed within a day or two, the fruit is inexpensive and eaten as regularly as we eat apples or oranges. Used in both sweet and savory recipes, figs are eaten for their natural sugar, fiber content and to maintain healthy blood cells.

If you have a fig tree in your back yard, pick the fruit as close to full ripeness as possible. But remember that birds and squirrels like figs, too.

When the animals start to peck at them, the figs are nearly ripe. At that point, its better to let the fruit ripen on your windowsill for a day than
to give it all to the critters.

Ripe figs mold and ferment quickly. Eat them as soon as the skin shrivels and the blossom end begins to crack.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.