Instructions: There is no doubt that the old conventional notions are safe and reliable white wine with fish red wine with amat. However there are exceptions and great fun can be had by trying some exotic mixtures.

With shellfish of all types select a bone dry white wine. The classics are M usca(let usually very reliable if unexciting and Chablis. Do not neglect the fruity tangy acidic Sancerre and Pouilly Blanc Fumt. Smoked salmon though is incredibly dif ficult to match since if the wine is too fight its flavour is overpowered. Possibly a wellchilledGewiirztramirierstands uptothisthe best thoughaswithothersmoked fish I think it a good idea to break rules and drink an icecold Dutch gin or Swedish schnapps if the meal is not a great gourmet occasion.

With the lighter types of fish try a dry white wine with perhaps a little more body and less obvious acidity. A good white Burgundy immediately springs to mind the choice ranging from the light dry wines of the Miconnais PouillyFuiss Pouilly Vinzelles and SaintV@ran to the littleknown but good and not too expensive Montagny and Givry. C6te de Beaune whites especially the classic Puligny Montrachets and Meumaults are at the top end of the scale. As alternatives drink a good AWce Riesling a Gf2nd Cru Chablis or for a completely different contrast try sherry.

With the heavier types of fishsuch as turbot I suggest a mature whitegood quality Burgundy the 1978 vintage is one to look out for or perhaps a good white

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