Instructions: *Or perch or cod.

**To make the garlic croutons, cut crusts from thick, day-old bread. Cut bread into large cubes. Spread a cookie sheet with garlic oil - either oil in which whole garlic cloves have been steeped, or oil that has been heated gently with a cut garlic clove, pressing on clove to release oils. Toss croutons in the garlic oil, then bake at 400 F., turning often, 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown.

If frozen, unwrap fish and allow to stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, or until soft enough to cut. With a sharp knife, cut into 2" cubes.

Meanwhile, heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan. Add prepared onions, carrots and celery and saute, stirring, 3 to 5 minutes over medium heat.

Add garlic and saute another 1 or 2 minutes. Add tomatoes (and their juices), stock and wine. Tie bouquet garni spices in a cheesecloth bag and attach with string to pot handle for easy removal. Place in tomato-wine mixture and let come to a boil, uncovered. Boil 5 to 10 minutes, then reduce heat to low. Add fish cubes and cover pot. Simmer 15 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

Serve on top of garlic croutons in heated bowls, garnished with chopped fennel or parsley.

Yield: 4 to 5 servings.

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