Recipe for Flour: Bread Vs. All-Purpose 
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Instructions: It is all a matter of gluten, a protein
constituent of grains quite prevalent in wheat flour. The reason that bread is kneaded is to develop the gluten into a "net-like" substance that traps the gas (carbon dioxide) bubbles) made by the yeast. Thats the rising side of gluten... but, it also has a tough side. The more the gluten is developed (which helps your loaf to rise) the "tougher" the finished product becomes (which makes hard crusts and chewier crumb). So, cakes us a flour that is lower in protein that makes the "gluten-net" when mixed and should not be over mixed to develop what "gluten-net" there is to work. That is why some pancake and waffle batters turn out tough results when over mixed. Of course, with breads, a strong "gluten-net" is needed to help their heavier doughs rise above the pull of earthly gravity. A "moon pie" would be much fluffier if baked in the moons low gravitational pull.

The amount of protein or "gluten potential" in flour changes with every grain crop. Thus, most millers will blend their flours to achieve a target number. Of course, flours can be blended to achieve lower cost to the miller, and thus, contribute to sale price flour... often at a results penalty. For the truly committed artisan bread baker, grinding your own flour from whole grains of known quality creates far superior bread... even when higher quality commercial white flour is used. Whole grains contain the bran and the germ which release essential oils that are exquisite when fresh... and horrid when they turn rancid... which is why some people keep whole grain flour in the freezer. White flour has had the bran and germ removed in the milling process, leaving only the endosperm to rise above the rest.

Hard wheat makes the best bread flour... soft wheat makes the best cake flour... and all purpose flour takes a little of the best from both characteristics. As you use better quality flours, you will usually see better quality results... all things being equal (which is not always the case... and, thus, the adventure!). You certainly could do a lot worse than King Arthur Flour, and you can even do better in my experience. If you liked what King Arthur All Purpose Flour did, you will find that King Arthur Machine Bread Flour will rise above that when baking bread (in the oven or in the ABM) and not be as good for some of the baked goodies that you want to have a particularly soft and delicate nature.

The critical difference is that the bread flour is one full percentage point higher in protein than their all-purpose flour. King Arthur also makes a Sir Lancelot High Gluten flour with a higher percentage of protein (14.0%) but that is more often used by commercial bakers with machines to do the heavier kneading required by the much stiffer dough. And, K.A. also makes Queen Guinevere Cake Flour which is bleached (yuck!) and very low in protein (probably less than 10%)... but light as a feather for commercial cake bakers. Better flours behave as expected and tend to have a finer texture in the finished product. If you do grind your own flour, you will find that the better wheat berry purveyors (such as Wild Oats or Whole Foods) will list the protein percentage and wheat type for you to achieve a much better than average artisan bread.

I prefer to use sourdough starters for a more healthy and wholesome home baking experience. Commercial yeast are selected for their ability to make a lot of gas in the shortest possible time and depend upon ingredients for good taste... and have only been around for a bit over a hundred years. Wild yeasts (with their symbiotic lactobacilli) make gas more slowly but have friendly bacteria that process the dough and make it tastier and more digestible by the account of most most bakers over the last 5,000 years of our human affection for leavened bread. It takes a bit longer... but, with good technique and a good knowledge of flour characteristics, it can be done with far less time and mess than most people home bakers know. Happy baking... -Sourdough Ed

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