Instructions: SERVES 6 TO 8

Focaccia has found a secure footing in America during the last 10 years, and whole books are devoted to this famous Italian flat bread.

This recipe makes
one plump little focaccia, enough to serve six at dinner, or eight as an appetizer. Offering fresh bread at a meal is a nice touch, and this one can be ready to bake in a scant hour.

Dissolve the yeast and sugar in 1/4 cup warm water in a small bowl and set aside until bubbly, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile oil a bowl for the dough.

In a mixing bowl, combine 1 cup warm water, then add the salt, oil, and as much flour as the dough will hold. Turn it out onto a floured surface and knead until smooth, working in enough flour to make it easy to handle, about 5 minutes. Place in the oiled bowl, turn once, and cover with a damp cloth. Set in a warm place to rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes to an hour.

Turn out the dough and roll it into circle or oval about 1/2 inch thick. Leave it whole or slash it decoratively in several places, then pull on the dough to open the cuts. Place on the back of a sheet pan or a wooden peel dusted with cornmeal, brush with olive oil, and sprinkle with coarse salt. Cover and let rise again, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 F with a baking stone if you have one. Bake the bread in the middle of the oven until the bread is browned, about 30 minutes. To develop a crisp crust, spray the bread with water two or three times during the first 10 minutes in the oven.

Focaccia with Fennel Seeds: Crush 1 teaspoon fennel seeds in a mortar or with the dull side of a knife just to bruise them and knead them into the dough.

When its time to roll out the dough, sprinkle whole fennel seeds over the top, then roll them in with a rolling pin.

Herb Focaccia: Very finely mince 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary or sage leaves.

Knead half into the dough and sprinkle the remainder on top, along with the salt, just before baking. If using sage leaves, set aside some whole ones for garnish and add them when the bread comes out of the oven.

Focaccia with Caramelized Onions: Thinly slice 1 large onion and cook it in 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat until soft and dark gold, about 20 minutes. Stir more frequently as the pan begins to dry. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the onions over the risen focaccia and sprinkle with dried oregano or chopped rosemary. (Pitted Gaeta or Nicoise olives are good too; their salty tang sets off the sweetness of the onions. Walnuts are also good with onions and olives.)

Focaccia with Blue Cheese and Walnuts: After the rolled dough has risen, press your fingertips over the top to make indentations. Crumble Gorgonzola over the top and bake. Take the bread out after 25 minutes, add a sprinkling of chopped walnuts, and return it to the oven for 5 minutes more. Serve with pepper cracked over the top and a scattering of chopped parsley. Ive also made this bread successfully using leftover Blue Cheese and Walnut Spread (See separate recipe.)

Focaccia Sandwich Rolls: Divide the dough into four to six pieces and knead each piece into a round. Press or roll it out into a disk a scant 1/2 inch thick. If the dough doesnt want to be worked, let it rest for 5 or 10 minutes, then go back to it. Cover and let rise, then bake at 400 F until the rolls are well browned, about 30 minutes. Spray them with water when they go into the oven and once or twice more during the baking. Remove from the oven and brush with oil.

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