Instructions: These are so rich and expensive that I hesitate to tell you about them. I have them in Tacoma, my home, every once in a while, since they are made from the shelled leg pieces of the great Dungeness crab. LaMoyne, who runs the Harbor Lights, one of our basic but very good seafood houses on the Tacoma waterfront, simply fries them on a griddle with a bit of butter.

"Nothing more need be done," she says, "as the crab legs speak for themselves. " That is good advice for all seafood cooks. Do not overcook.

Let the seafood speak for itself.

When you see the price on fresh Dungeness crab legs, you will want them to speak for themselves. You may want them to lecture!

Salad and hash browns come on the plate at LaMoynes. I think she is right.

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