Instructions: Combine quail, buttermilk and garlic in a bowl. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Combine flour with next 5 ingredients. Blend sour cream, heavy cream and chipotles. Let stand for 15 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Remove quail from buttermilk. Dredge in seasoned flour and fry in oil heated to 360 to 375 degrees for about 5 to 6 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with sauce on the side for dipping.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: In many parts of the country, just about any sauce is referred to as "gravy". It doesnt matter that the gravy is actually a reduction of port wine, fresh berries and shallot, finished silky-smooth with a touch of butteraits still gravy.

This simple, um, gravy takes on some smoky-hot Southwestern flavors from chipotle peppers. Use the chipotles sparingly. You can always add more if its not quite hot enough. Youll find them in a small can (packed in adobo sauce - also spicy) in the Hispanic section of your market.

I like to serve this dish with well-seasoned rice and fresh corn. By the way, quail really must be eaten with your hands. I dont care what Martha Stewart says.

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