Instructions: Rinse about 20 large fresh sage leaves and lay flat on a double layer of paper towels; cover with more towels and press gently to flatten and dry leaves.

Pour olive or canola oil into a narrow 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan over medium-high heat to a depth of 1/4 inch. When hot (oil will ripple), lower heat to medium and add sage leaves, a few at a time, in a single layer. Fry just until oil stops bubbling around leaves, 10 to 15 seconds (do not let brown), then remove carefully with tongs and drain on more paper towels.

Sprinkle with salt to taste. Use at once, or store between layers of paper towels in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.

Comments: Crisp, delicious fried sage leaves are the kind of smart touch chefs love to use to dress up winter dishes. Why let them claim all the kitchen wisdom, though? Its almost shamefully easy to fry the leaves: it just takes 15 seconds in a tiny bit of hot oil - and sage is sturdy, so no worries about it crumbling. You can use the common variety, which darkens to a deep gray-green, or search out variegated sage for a more dramatic look.

A few fried leaves are wonderful floated on a savory squash soup, garnishing an hors doeuvres tray, or planted on a comforting bowl of polenta with parmesan cheese; for extra impact, fry up a big batch and arrange the sage around a lavish Christmas pork roast.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.