Instructions: Big fans of garlic are heading to Gilroy this weekend for "THE"

festival. But first they should check out the big garlic available now in stores. Were talking cloves as big as shallots. Bulbs the size of grapefruit.

Its elephant garlic. Now, even the hoi polloi can sample the treat. The majestic bulbs, once sold only in gourmet grocery stores, are showing up in regular supermarkets.

The gourmet stores still carry the biggest bulbs. The ones I bought measured about 5 inches in diameter, compared to the 3 inch bulbs the supermarkets sell.

But either size will yield some pretty good eating, despite what the critics say. Some food experts claim elephant garlic is too mild for their tastes. In their abook, "Garlic, Garlic, Garlic," Fred and Linda Griffith write:

"Most garlic enthusiasts dismiss it contemptuously - and we must confess we are among them. This is wimp garlic - contributing no real presence to a dish."
Not so fast. Ive found a way to bring out the best in the gentle giants. I bathe the bulbs in olive oil and grill them over a charcoal fire for some of the best garlic spread this side of Gilroy.

Gilroy is the world capital of garlic-growing and site of an annual garlic festival where the "stinking rose" may be eaten in all its forms, including roasted.

Most recipes calls for roasting the garlic in the oven, but grilling it over indirect heat on a charcoal or gas grill gives it lovely, smoky flavor.

When roasted, elephant garlic becomes mellow and caramel-flavored, and makes a wonderful spread for crusty bread. The giant cloves fall from the paper husks, and spread as easily as butter.

Even regular garlic loses its sharp edge when grilled or roasted. But because elephant garlic is mild to begin with, the roasted version is even more yummy.

Grilled garlic is a great appetizer for an upscale picnic. Those who own both a gas and a charcoal grill can cook the garlic on the gas grill, and save the charcoal briquettes for the main course.

A giant head of elephant garlic cooks in about 40 minutes on a grill. The coals or lava rocks should be restricted to one side of the grill, and the garlic placed on the other side.

The lid is closed to allow the heat to circulate all around the bulb, softening it to paste-like texture. If the garlic acquires a few charred edges, all the better.

The garlic bulb is roasted whole, with just the outer loose, papery layers removed. Care should be taken that enough skin is left on the bulb to hold the cloves together.

Before roasting, the top fourth of the bulb is sliced off and discarded, exposing the tops of the cloves. After grilling, the soft cloves must be squeezed from the papery skin when using smaller bulbs.

With elephant garlic, the skin usually falls away. While still warm, the soft, sweet garlic is spread on thin slices of French bread.

Our recipe is simplicity itself. Olive oil seasoned with thyme, salt and pepper is drizzled over the cut bulbs and placed on the grill. For practically no work, you get a luscious appetizer.

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