Instructions: Remove and reserve the shells from the shrimp. Devein the shrimp if you want. If the shrimp have heads, twist them off and cook them with the rest of the shells. Rinse shrimp and set aside.

Combine the shrimp shells, wine and 1 thyme sprig or 1/2 teaspoon dried in a saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer uncovered for 15 minutes. Strain the stock and measure 1/4 cup. Freeze extra stock to use for seafood sauces and soups.

Note: To save time, you can substitute packaged fish or seafood stock, which is sold in specialty stores and some fish markets. Other options are canned vegetable or chicken stock or 2 to 3 tablespoons of bottled clam juice (you use less of it because its salty).

Cook the asparagus uncovered in a saucepan of boiling salted water until not quite crisp-tender, about 2 or 3 minutes. Drain the pieces, reserving the liquid, rinse them with cold water and drain well. Measure 1/4 cup cooking liquid.

Heat 1 or 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat until sizzling. Add the shrimp, salt and pepper and cook, tossing often, for 1 1/2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until the shrimp turn pink and are just cooked through, about 1 minute; when you cut one at its thickest part, it should be white inside. Spoon the shrimp into a bowl.

Wipe the skillet clean, then heat 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in the skillet over medium-low heat. Add the asparagus, salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. With a slotted spoon, transfer the asparagus to the bowl.

Pour the measured shrimp stock and asparagus liquid into the skillet. Boil, stirring often, until the liquid is reduced to about 1/3 cup, 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, remaining tablespoon of butter, parsley, 1/2 teaspoon thyme and cayenne to taste, if using. Return the shrimp and asparagus to the pan and toss over medium-low heat until heated through. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot, with lemon wedges.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: To use green beans instead of asparagus, break the trimmed beans in three pieces and cook them about 5 minutes.

NOTES : Faye Levy is the author of the three-volume "Fresh From France" cookbook series (Dutton, 1987-90)

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