Instructions: Almost anyone who has eaten Greek food is familiar with that wonderful Greek specialty spanakopita, or spinach pie, or the most renowned of Greek sweets, baklava (see the recipe that follows). While one dish is savory and the other sweet, both are recognizable from their baked-up, golden, crispy appearance, a telltale sign that theyre made from phyllo (or filo) dough.

Phyllo (which means leaf in Greek) dough is finely rolled and stretched sheets of wheat dough. Paper-thin and almost translucent, the sheets are approximately 12 x 20 inches and are stacked, rolled, wrapped, and then frozen. Phyllo dough is readily available at most supermarkets and at Greek and Middle Eastern specialty food stores.

Because the dough is already rolled and cut, phyllo is easy to work with when handled properly. Be aware, however, that the sheets of dough are so thin that they dry out quickly and can tear, leading to less than satisfactory results.

For beautiful baked goods, follow these tips for working with phyllo:

Plan accordingly. Frozen phyllo dough has to defrost several hours or overnight in a tightly sealed package before you use it.

Always defrost the dough in the refrigerator. If not, the outer sheets may become sticky from condensation in the package as it defrosts. Sticky sheets usually tear as you try to separate them.

Because the dough tends to dry out so quickly, prepare the filling mixture and other ingredients while the dough defrosts. Cool filling mixtures to room temperature before using.

Bring the dough to room temperature before using.

To remove the phyllo dough from the package, carefully slit one end of the inner plastic bag. Save the bag to repack any leftover dough. Remove the defrosted dough from the package and carefully unroll it slowly so you dont tear it. Set the entire stack of phyllo on a large tray or clean kitchen towel.

The sheets of dough are so thin that theyll begin to dry out almost immediately. The dry phyllo will then crack and be almost impossible to work with. Therefore, always cover the dough immediately with a sheet or two of wax paper or a clean, dampened kitchen cloth, wrung out well, making sure that the edges of the dough are well protected.

Phyllo dough is usually a fat-free product. When baking with it, you usually need to brush the individual sheets with melted, clarified butter.

Dont fret if the dough gets small tears or cracks in it. The dough is so thin that such cracks are inevitable. Simply brush the area with melted butter, patch up the problem area with a small piece of dough, and brush over it again with some more butter.

Never wet or brush the phyllo sheets (or "leaves," as the Greeks refer to them) with water. Doing so can cause the phyllo to fall apart.

Because pastries using phyllo are made with melted butter, always bake them on a pan with a lip to catch any runoff.

Unused, leftover phyllo sheets can be re-rolled and placed in the original plastic bag. Tape to seal the end and place back in the box. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week or refreeze for up to 3 months.

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