Instructions: Place warm water in a small bowl. Sprinkle yeast and pinch of brown sugar over water and stir to dissolve. Let mixture stand until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Combine buttermilk, sugar, eggs, salt and 2 cups flour in a large bowl or in work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with paddle attachment. Using a whisk or with electric mixer on low, beat for 1 minute more. Add soft butter and yeast mixture. Beat another minute. Add remaining flour, 1/2 cup at a time, until a soft dough that just clears the sides of the bowl is formed (switch to a wooden spoon, when necessary, if making by hand).

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth and springy, 3-5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of flour at a time, as necessary, to prevent sticking. The dough will be soft. Place in a greased deep bowl and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.

Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. Turn dough out onto work surface; do not knead. With a rolling pin, roll out dough into a large 14- by 20 inch rectangle. For filling, brush surface with melted butter and sprinkle evenly with layers of brown sugar, cinnamon, nuts and raisins. Roll up from long edge, jelly-roll fashion. Pinch seam to seal and leave ends open.

To cut rolls, use a sharp chefs knife. To create plain swirled rolls, use knife in a gentle back-and-forth motion, cutting 16 slices about 1 1/2 inches thick. Place each roll at least 3 inches apart on baking sheets. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel and let rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, from about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees 20 minutes before baking. Bake on center rack of oven for 18-25 minutes. Do not overbake, as the rolls dry out easily during reheating.

When rolls are baking, make orange icing: Place all of the ingredients for the icing in a large bowl or in the work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer.

Beat on low speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. The icing should be the spreading consistency of thick buttercream frosting.

Remove rolls from oven and, using a small metal spatula, immediately frost each one with a layer of icing. Serve rolls warm, or let cool completely and place in resealable plastic freezer bags and freeze for up to 2 months. To reheat, remove rolls from freezer and let thaw in the bag at room temperature.

Remove rolls from bag, place on a heat-proof plate, and microwave on high for no more than 30 seconds to warm, or bake at 350 degrees for 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immediately.

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