Instructions: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Brush the insides of 8 mini- or baby cake pans, each 4 inches across and 1 inch deep, with a light coating of melted butter, dust with flour, and tap out the excess.

In a small bowl, whisk the flour, expresso powder, cocoa, ground ginger, baking powder, salt, and black pepper together just to mix; reserve.

Put the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or use a hand-held mixer, and beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is smooth and creamy, scraping down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. The butter and sugar must be beaten until they are very light and fluffy, so dont rush it - the process can take 6 to 8 minutes with a hand-held mixer, 3 to 4 minutes with a heavy-duty mixer. Reduce the speed to medium and add the eggs one at a time, beating at high speed for 30 seconds to a minute after each addition. The mixture may look curdled, but thats OK - it will smooth out as you continue to mix the batter. Beat in the fresh ginger and add the molasses, mixing on medium speed for 1 to 2 minutes, until completely smooth. With a rubber spatula, fold in the dry ingredients, mixing only until they are incorporated.

Divide the batter among the prepared pans and rotate the pans a couple of times to level. Bake the cakes for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the cakes are springy to the touch and the tops crack. Take care not to overbake these cakes, they should remain moist.

Transfer the cakes to a rack and cool for 10 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edges of the pans to loosen and unmold the cakes. Turn the cakes over so they cool right side up.

Serve the cakes warm or at room temperature with a generous dollop of lightly whipped cream and a shower of candied lemon peel if desired. These moist cakes will keep covered at room temperature for 3 days or, wrapped airtight, can be frozen for up to a month. Thaw, still unwrapped, at room temperature.

This recipe yields 8 small cakes.

Large Gingerbread Cake: Butter and flour a 10-inch round cakepan, fill with the batter, and bake for 50 to 60 minutes, until the top is springy and a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Transfer the cake to a rack and cool for 10 minutes, then run a thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen and unmold the cake. Turn the cake over so it cools right side up.

Comments: This gingerbread is spicy, robust, and bursting with the heat of ginger and black pepper. Its texture is soft and moist, its color, dark and mysterious. It looks like a sweet chocolate cake, but it delivers a punch. Wonderful with lightly whipped cream and candied lemon peel, its a good match with ice cream of various flavors. Although the cakes are adorable made in baby cake pans, the recipe can be made successfully as one large cake.

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