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Instructions: Q. I have a recipe for an asparagus/pasta dish with a goat cheese sauce. It seems feta is much more readily available, could it be subbed? What are the consequences?

A. We would not make the substitution; feta is likely to be much too salty.

It is made in large blocks that are salted, sliced, salted again, then soaked for a month in brine. Some kinds of feta taste of little more than salt. Thats not going to add substantially to your dish.

There are two perplexing issues in your question, though. Does the recipe really specify "goat cheese?" There are so many varieties of goats milk cheese it would be hard to suggest a substitute without knowing which variety is needed. Both flavor and melting characteristics can vary a lot. If its just "goat cheese," or one of the many varieties of chevre, wed look for a fresh cheese, such as farmers cheese.

Second, where do you live? Goats milk cheeses should be available pretty universally. If your supermarket doesnt carry several varieties, there must be other sources available - specialty food stores, health food stores, farmers markets, etc.. If not, you should just move.

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