Instructions: Potatoes are a very old crop. Its hard to fathom, in fact, that anything could be new in the world of potatoes. Yes, the re-emergence of specialty potatoes such as Peruvian Purples stirred up potato lovers for a while. But otherwise, potatoes are pretty much tried and true, year after year.

Then there is the "new potato," so-called because they are harvested - right about this time of year - before they reach maturity. They are eaten rather quickly, as opposed to being stored for months as are mature potatoes.

"Any variety of potato can be a new potato," says Wendy Jenkins of the National Potato Promotional Board in Denver. "The name new refers generally to their size. New potatoes are about the size of a silver dollar, perhaps one to three ounces in weight, and are usually round in shape," explains Jenkins.

While many people think all new potatoes have red skins, this isnt necessarily true, says Jenkins. Neither are all red-skinned potatoes new potatoes. Most red-skinned potatoes - while rather small - are not as small as new potatoes, nor are they harvested early.

Some new potatoes do have red skins, and these are generally the most popular type of new potato because they are pretty. "Red-skinned potatoes are also popular because that variety generally is smaller in size than other potatoes and is naturally round, qualities which make them more suited to being harvested young," says Jenkins.

Whether new potatoes have white, brown or red skins, the skin of all these young potatoes is thin and smooth. Like most young vegetables, the skin of a new potato is much more tender than that of the mature vegetable, and it is therefore advisable - even preferable - to leave it on instead of peeling before cooking. Indeed, most recipes call for new potatoes with the skin on.

Frankly, its a matter of taste, and the cook should do as he or she likes, with full confidence that whether peeled or not, the young potatos flavor and texture will shine through. Thats provided, of course, that the recipe is appropriate for new potatoes.

Recipes that call for new potatoes are often outstanding for their simplicity. Boiled new potatoes served with butter, chives or parsley and a little salt is a classic treatment, and one that highlights the moist texture and "fresh" flavor of the potatoes. New potato salad is quite a common recipe thats a suitable accompaniment to springs lighter fare and summers al fresco meals.

Sauteed new potatoes taste best when the potatoes are very small, about the size more often found at a farmers market than in a supermarket. The small size of new potatoes makes them a natural for the grill. Cut them in half, precook them until tender (about 10 minutes), thread them on skewers and grill them for about 10 more minutes.

New potatoes are actually available year-round in some places. However, for most people theyre seasonal. According to Jenkins, the earliest new potatoes in the United States come from California and Florida, and are available in late spring and early summer. The biggest new potato crop comes to market in late summer, since the regular potato harvest takes place in the fall. Farmers markets and even health food stores are a good place to find new potatoes. Some are even organic. Otherwise, larger supermarkets usually carry them seasonally.

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