Instructions: Line 3 baking sheets with parchment or wax paper and draw an 8 inch circle on each sheet. (The simplest way is to find a bowl or cake pan with desired dimensions, plonk it on and draw around it.)

To prepare meringues: In a large bowl with an electric mixer or a whisk, beat egg whites until stiff. Add sugar, a spoonful at a time, beating well after each addition. Believe me - and I speak as someone often criminally impatient - it does make life easier to go slowly here. Sprinkle cocoa and vinegar over top and, using a rubber spatula, gently but firmly fold into mixture until completely incorporated.

Using a rubber spatula, divide meringue mixture among 3 circles, spreading evenly.

Bake 1 hour, then turn off oven, leaving meringues inside until just slightly warm. Carefully peel paper away from meringues and finish cooling on a wire rack.

To prepare creme patissiere: Using an electric mixer or whisk, beat egg yolks and sugar together. Add cocoa and flour and mix well. Set aside.

In a saucepan over medium-low heat, warm milk and cream. Do not boil.

Whisking egg mixture constantly, slowly add milk mixture and then pour everything back into saucepan. Return to medium heat and, stirring constantly, bring to a boil and cook until thickened, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in melted chocolate and vanilla.

Let mixture cool, but avoid putting it into refrigerator as it will become too solid. You can stop it from forming a skin by pressing a piece of buttered parchment or wax paper against surface or by sifting a layer of confectioners sugar over top. I often prefer to plunge the saucepan into a sink full of iced water and just keep stirring.

To assemble cake, place one meringue disk on a flat plate, spread with a third of chocolate cream, then carry on layering. Scatter over chopped pistachios, which will gleam out, a tender grass-green against the dark chocolate. Then just cut in.

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