Instructions: The easiest and most consistent way to form the gougeres is to pipe out small rounds using a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip. Lacking this, you could also use 2 teaspoons.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 425F. Place the water, butter, salt and pepper in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat (do not allow it to boil for any length of time) and add the flour all at once.

Stir with a wooden spoon until a ball forms. Return to medium heat to dry the paste. Flatten the paste on the bottom of the pan, bring it up to the side of the pan nearest you, then flop it over to the opposite side of the pan. Continue until butter starts oozing out in bubbles, about 5 minutes.

When pinched, the paste should not stick to your fingers. Remove from the heat and wait 5 minutes until slightly cooled, then beat in the eggs one at a time, waiting until each is incorporated before adding the next. Add the cheese and mustard. Butter a baking sheet, then rinse under cold water, or place parchment paper on the baking sheet. Pipe out small dots, about 1/2-inch in diameter, leaving enough room for them to triple in size. Brush with beaten egg or milk, sprinkle with more cheese, and bake for 15 minutes. Lower the heat to 400F, open the oven door briefly to let the steam escape and then bake for an additional 10 minutes. Cool on a rack.

Gougeres freeze well.

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