Instructions: Top and tail beans and leave them whole unless they are very large. In that case, cut them diagonally into 1-inch pieces. Drop into a large pot of boiling, salted water and cook just until they lose their raw taste - 4 to 5 minutes. Immediately drain and run cold water over to stop the cooking. These can be done well ahead and kept at room temperature.

To serve, put 1 tablespoon of butter in a frying pan set over medium heat. Saute shallot for a couple of minutes, then toss beans into the mixture. As you cook them, put the remaining butter and vinegar in a small saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring until the butter browns - 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately stir into the beans, sprinkle with pepper, and serve.

This recipe serves 4.

Comments: A lot of to-do has been raised recently about the uses of balsamic vinegar, so potent it can overpower a tender salad, but sometimes perfect in cooking to give a complex resonance we cannot quite put a finger on. This is one such, though you could use aged sherry vinegar with equal aplomb.

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