Instructions: Cut octopus pouches (heads) from tentacles, leaving enough pouch to keep tentacles attached in 1 piece (for small octopuses discard pouches.) In a 8 quart kettle combine octopus pouches and tentacles, lemon, salt, peppercorns, and water to cover by 1 inch and simmer gently, covered, until octopus is knife-tender, 20 to 30 minutes. In a colander drain octopus and cool until it can be handled. With hands rub off purplish skin from pouches and tentacles (skin around suction cups may not come off completely). In a large bowl whisk together remaining ingredients and salt and pepper to taste and add octopus, turning to coat. Marinate octopus, covered and chilled, 1 day.

Prepare grill.

Transfer octopus to paper towels to drain and reserve marinade. Grill octopus on an oiled rack set 5 to 6 inches over glowing coals, turning occasionally, until browned, about 6 minutes. Cut octopus into bite-size pieces (leave small octopus whole) and toss with reserved marinade.

Octopus may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Serve octopus at room temperature.

Serves 12

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