Instructions: To make raita, peel cucumber, halve lengthwise, and scrape out any seeds. Shred on large holes of a grater/shredder. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt, then place in a sieve to drain for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small frying pan over medium heat, toast cumin seeds until fragrant and lightly colored, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a mortar or spice grinder and grind to a powder. In a bowl, combine yogurt, tomato, mint, chile, cayenne and ground cumin. Stir to mix. Add cucumber just before serving. Season with salt.

While cucumber is draining, prepare a medium-hot fire in a grill with a cover. When fire is ready, divide coals into 2 piles and arrange on either side of grate. Put grill rack in place and preheat it. Coat each salmon fillet with 1 teaspoon olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Place fillets, skin side down, in center of grill rack, not directly over coals. Cover grill, leaving top and bottom vents open. Cook until fish is just opaque, 6-8 minutes.

Slip long, offset spatula between skin and flesh of fillets and transfer fillets to warmed individual plates, leaving skin behind. Spoon some raita over salmon. Pass remaining raita at the table.

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