Instructions: * Note: When choosing squid, pick ones that are the length of a hand, not including tentacles.

Make the Olive Oil and Lemon Dressing: In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, black pepper, and sea salt. Toss arugula with the dressing, and set aside.

Make the Chile Pepper Dressing: Cut chiles in half, lengthwise, and scrape out seeds with a teaspoon. Chop finely using a sharp knife or a mezzaluna. In a small bowl, combine chiles, lemon juice, olive oil, sea salt, and black pepper. Whisk well, and then set aside.

To clean the squid, locate the clear bone inside the body cavity, and pull it out. Remove the tentacles by pulling them away from the body. Try not to puncture the silvery ink sac near the tentacles; if it bursts, rinse squid, and wash hands well. Cut off the head just below the eyes, keeping the cluster of tentacles intact. Trim the two longer tentacles. Push out the bone-like beak, located in the center of the tentacles, and discard.

Slice squid lengthwise, open it, and flatten it on a work surface. Remove the winglike flaps, and use a knife to scrape out the remaining insides (if desired, reserve flaps, which can be used the same day in salad, risotto, or pasta sauce). Rinse the body well under cold running water, and drain. Heat grill.

Cook squid, scored-side down, and tentacles on a hot grill for 1 to 2 minutes. Turn over, and squirt with lemon juice. Squid will immediately curl, meaning its done.

Arrange a squid and tentacles on a bed of dressed arugula, dress the squid with chile pepper dressing, and garnish with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.

NOTES : Rose Gray is the author of "Rogers Gray Italian Country Cookbook", and co-owner of The River Cafe, London

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