Instructions: * Note: Choose well-marbled cuts such as porterhouse, rib eye, T-bone, tenderloin (filet mignon), or top loin (New York or strip) about 1 inch thick. If meat is thicker - up to 2 inches - use medium heat (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds) and allow extra time - up to 20 minutes for a medium-rare 2-inch-thick steak, 25 for medium.

If using charcoal briquets, ignite 65 to 75 briquets (about 4 1/2 lbs) on the firegrate; open dampers. When coals are dotted with ash, in 15 to 20 minutes, spread into an even, solid layer and allow to burn down until they are hot (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds), 5 to 10 minutes.

If using a gas barbecue, turn all burners to high and close lid for at least 10 minutes, then adjust to desired heat.

Trim and discard excess fat from steaks (dripping fat can cause flare-ups). Rinse steaks and pat dry. Sprinkle lightly all over with salt and pepper.

Lay steaks on grill 4 to 6 inches above heat; close lid on gas barbecue. Cook until done to your liking, 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare (cut to test; see note), turning once with a wide spatula or tongs halfway through cooking. Transfer to a board or platter and let rest about 5 minutes before serving.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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