Instructions: Toss the tomatoes with a little oil to coat them, then grill, broil, or sear in a heavy skillet until wrinkled and charred in places. Toast the oregano in a dry skillet until fragrant then remove to a dish. Toss the garlic cloves with enoguh oil to coat lightly, then put them in the same skillet. Cover and cook over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until browned on the outside and tender when pressed. Peel the garlic when cool enough to handle.

Puree the tomatoes and garlic in a blender until smooth. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Pour in the tomato sauce and add the oregano. Simmer the sauce, stirring frequently, until its thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt to taste.

Variation: Grilled Tomato Sauce with Chiles. Toast 2 ancho chiles in a 300 F oven until puffed and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove the stems, seeds, and veins, tear the pods into pieces, and puree in a blender with the tomatoes and garlic.

Makes 3 cups.

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