Instructions: The breadsticks on the table at your favorite Italian restaurant are called grissini. You can buy packaged grissini at Italian specialty shops, but they are far better when homemade. These are onion-flavored.

1. Heat oil in a large skillet over low heat. Add onions and cook, stirring, until deep golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

2. Put warm water in a large bowl. Sprinkle yeast on top and let stand for 5 minutes. Add sugar and salt. Gradually stir in three-fourths of the flour and stir until the mixture forms a dough. Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as necessary, until the dough is soft, silky and no longer sticky. (Alternatively, to make dough in a food processor, dissolve yeast in warm water. Combine 3 cups flour, sugar and salt in the food processor. With the motor running, gradually pour the yeast mixture through the feed tube. Add additional flour as necessary to make a dough that forms a ball, then process for 40 to 60 seconds to knead. Turn out onto a floured work surface.)

3. Knead in the reserved onions, adding additional flour as needed. Place the dough into a lightly oiled medium-sized bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes to 1 hour

4. Set oven racks in upper and middle positions; preheat to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Lightly oil 2 baking sheets or spray with nonstick cooking spray and dust with flour.

5. Punch down the dough and turn out onto a well floured surface. Pat into a rectangle about 8 by 15 inches. Cut the rectangle in half lengthwise, then cut each rectangle crosswise into about twenty 3/4-inch-wide strips. Roll each strip into an 8-inch-long "snake" and cut in half; you will have about eighty 4-inch lengths [per recipe yield in 80 grissini]. Place on the prepared baking sheets. Let rest for 15 minutes, covered with towels.

6. In a small bowl, lightly whisk the egg white with 1 tablespoon water [per recipe yielding 80 grissini]. Brush the tops of the breadsticks with the egg-white mixture.

7. Bake 2 sheets at a time, reversing pans midway, for 30 to 40 minutes, or until deep golden and crisp. If your breadsticks will not fit on 2 baking sheets, you can bake them in batches. (Store cooled breadsticks in a tightly covered container for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months. Re-crisp for 5 minutes at 350 degrees F/175 degrees C.)

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