Instructions: Rinse ham with cool water, and dry with paper towels. Let stand for 2 hours at room temperature. Place rack on lowest level in oven; heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a roasting pan with heavy duty aluminum foil. Transfer ham, with thicker rind on top, to rack. Pour 1/2 cup bourbon over ham. Cook for 2 hours, or until an instant read thermometer registers 140 degrees.

While the ham bakes, prepare the glaze. Toast mustard seeds, cardamom, and fennel in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 3 to 4 minutes. Let cool slightly; grind in spice grinder. Put mixture in small bowl, add cinnamon, ginger, Dijon mustard, 2 tablespoons each of brown sugars, corn syrup, and molasses. Mix well, and set aside.

Remove ham from oven; let cool for 20 to 30 minutes. Trim away rind of ham with kitchen scissors or sharp knife. Trim fat with a sharp knife to a 1/8- to 1/4-inch layer. Place ham bottom-side down (the bottom side will have less fat and more skin). Score top of ham into 1- to 2-inch diamonds, cutting 1/8 to 1/4 inch through fat and into meat. Place a whole clove at intersection of each diamond.

Coat ham well with glaze. Combine remaining 1 1/2 cups brown sugars in a small bowl. Pat brown-sugar mixture firmly into glaze (reapply any glaze that has fallen off).

Return ham to roasting pan. To make a decorative bay-leaf collar around shank bone, make holes in leaves with a toothpick; affix to ham with whole cloves. Return to oven; cook for 1 hour, basting every 20 minutes with remaining bourbon. (Do not baste with pan juices.) The ham should be dark brown and crusty; cook 15 minutes more, if necessary. Let stand for 30 minutes before carving.

Cut a thick slice from the roundest protruding side of the ham, making a flat base. Stand the ham on the cut side (the meatiest side is now on top). Slice straight down until you hit the bone; in one motion, run the knife horizontally along the top of the bone, then cut straight down again in 1/4-inch intervals. Remove slices, and serve immediately.

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