Instructions: Reconstitute the anchos by putting them in a pot of hot water and soaking until soft, about 20 minutes. While the chiles are soaking, puree all the ingredients except the water in a blender or food processor.

Remove the anchos from the pot (reserving the water), stem and tear them into several pieces, and add to the blender. Taste the chile water, and if not bitter, add 3/4 cup to the blender (otherwise add water). Puree until smooth. For a thinner sauce, add more chile water in small increments until you reach the desired consistency. Refrigerated, harissa will keep for several weeks.

NOTES : This rip-roaring North African and French hot sauce made with cayenne (called "the enraged pepper" by the French) is served with many things - stews, grilled mussels, even bread. Its thick, paste- like consistency makes it a flavorful side accompaniment to grilled meats, or it can be thinned with chile water and served over couscous.

MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS.

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