Instructions: Bite into these truffles and the richness of the chocolate is immediately offset by a pronounced herbal presence. Take your pick: bittersweet chocolate with mint or white chocolate teamed with tarragon. Or make both; an assortment of white and dark truffles makes for a stunning dessert course.

Herbfarm Cookbook" by Jerry Traunfeld (Scribner, 2000).

*Use premium bittersweet chocolate, such as Callebaut, Valrhona or El Rey.

Use the same technique for either truffle: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the cream to a boil. Add the herb sprigs, using a wooden spoon to push them under the surface of the liquid, and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Cover and set aside to steep for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, finely chop the bittersweet chocolate or white chocolate. Transfer to a food processor or bowl; set aside.

Strain the cream into a large measuring cup, using a wooden spoon to press down firmly on the herbs to extract all the liquid from the leaves. Discard the herbs. You should have about 1 1/4 cups of cream if youre making the bittersweet chocolate mint truffles or 3/4 cup for the white chocolate tarragon truffles; if necessary, add enough additional plain heavy cream to the cup to reach the desired amount.

Return the cream to the saucepan, place over medium-high heat and bring it to a boil. Immediately pour it over the bittersweet chocolate or white chocolate and set aside for 1 minute. Turn on the food processor or beat with a standing mixer or wooden spoon until smooth. Using a rubber spatula, scrape either chocolate-cream mixture (or ganache) to a bowl and set aside for 2 hours at room temperature.

Have ready a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using a tiny ice cream scoop, a melon baller or a teaspoon, scoop the ganache into roughly shaped 3/4 inch balls and transfer to the prepared sheet. After all the balls are scooped, quickly roll each one between your palms, using steady light pressure, to form round balls. If you are working in a warm room, refrigerate the truffles for 15 minutes prior to rolling the balls. If you have trouble with the chocolate melting in your palms, wash your hands, dip them in a bowl of ice water, dry them thoroughly and try again.

Place the cocoa or pistachios, depending on which truffle you are making, in a medium bowl and gently drop in 6 truffles. Swirl the bowl to coat the truffles evenly. Transfer the coated truffles to a large strainer and tap the edge of the strainer with your palm to knock off the excess coating. Transfer the coated truffles to a plastic storage container; repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Tightly cover the truffles and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Return to room temperature prior to serving.

variations:
For the bittersweet chocolate truffles: Instead of mint, substitute four 3 inch sprigs fresh tarragon or 8 medium fresh rose geranium leaves.

For the white chocolate truffles: Instead of tarragon, substitute four 3 inch sprigs fresh tarragon, six 3 inch sprigs fresh spearmint, 8 medium fresh rose geranium leaves, 1/4 cup finely chopped young angelica stems, 6 fresh bay laurel leaves, 1 tablespoon fresh lavender buds (or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried) or 1/2 cup fresh lemon verbena leaves (or 1/4 cup crumbled dried). Andrea M. Vayda is

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