Instructions: Fresh tuna steaks get a pleasing jolt from horseradish, which gives special texture and tang to dishes such as scrambled eggs, salad dressings, meat and fish. To salute this ancient root, Ive created this simple glazed fish dish.

Fresh tuna is nothing like the familiar canned variety. Meaty and delicious, tuna steaks can dry out easily and need to be carefully cooked. In fact, its best to undercook them a little. The tuna will continue to cook in its own heat when removed from the stove.

A rule of thumb: measure the steak at its thickest point and cook it 8 minutes per inch of thickness. If you like your tuna rare, make sure your pan is smoking hot and sear the tuna about 3 minutes per side if 1 inch thick, 2 minutes per side if thinner.

Round out the meal with sauteed new potatoes; a salad of washed, ready-to-eat spinach topped with grated carrots; and a rich merlot.

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