Instructions: Food historian Maricel Presilla has re-created a drink served at the lavish receptions called "agasajos" in 17th-century Spain. Combine 1/2 gallon milk; 1/4 oz. dried rosebuds or 2 tsp. rosewater; 1 tsp. saffron threads, lightly crushed; 3 sticks cin- namon; 2 whole dried arbol or pequin chilies; 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise; and 1/2 cup sugar in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Scald milk, stirring to dissolve sugar, then lower heat and cook 10 minutes. Remove from heat; steep 10 minutes.

Strain into a large pot. Heat gently, then add 1/2 lb. bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped. Whisk briskly for 5 minutes to dissolve chocolate and make a frothy head.

Serves 8.

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