Instructions: * Note: Or substitute 1 1/2 cups dried de arbol, Japones, or chiltepin chiles, softened in hot water, seeded, and patted dry.

For the Chicken Stock: In a medium stockpot, combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil. Cover, lower heat to medium-low, and boil gently for 1 hour. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve lined with dampened cheesecloth. (

Makes about 5 cups)

For the Roasted Chilies in Oil: Place tamarind in a medium bowl, and cover with 1 cup hot water. Let sit until soft and water has cooled, 15 to 20 minutes. Massage tamarind to release the pulp. Discard the seeds. Let sit 15 minutes more to allow juice to thicken.

Soak corn husks in cool water until softened. Heat oven to 500 degrees. Stack corn husks, and wrap fermented shrimp paste or miso in them. Place in a small baking pan, and bake for 20 minutes. The corn husks and paste will get slightly char-burnt. Let cool, discard burnt husks, and set paste aside.

Line two baking sheets with paper towels, and set aside. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until a deep-frying thermometer registers 300 to 325 degrees. Reduce heat to medium-high, add the garlic, and fry until golden, stirring constantly, to prevent burning and ensure even browning, 2 to 3 minutes. When the oil begins to spatter, add a pinch of sea salt. With a slotted spoon, transfer garlic to a prepared baking sheet to drain.

Add shallots to oil, and cook, stirring, until golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to prepared baking sheet to drain.

Add chiles to oil, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Transfer to prepared baking sheet to drain.

Add shrimp, and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Transfer to baking sheet to drain.

Allow oil to cool. Reserve 1/4 cup oil in skillet. Strain the rest, and reserve for another use.

Place garlic and shallots in the bowl of a food processor. Process until fine. Add dried shrimp, and process to combine. Each ingredient should be pureed before the next is added. Add the chiles, and puree; then add the char-burnt fermented shrimp paste or miso. Scrape down sides of bowl, and blend well. Add palm sugar, fish sauce, and 1/4 cup tamarind juice. Pulse to combine. The sauce should be spicy-sweet, salty, and slightly sour, all in balance.

Heat the reserved 1/4 cup oil in the skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Add the pureed mixture, and stir until the oil absorbs the red color from the chiles, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and allow to cool. Transfer to a glass container with a tight-fitting lid. The sauce will keep refrigerated for several months. (

Makes about 1 1/2 cups)

Peel and devein shrimp, reserving 10 shells. Rinse the shrimp, pat dry, and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over high heat until it begins to smoke. Add dried chiles and reserved shrimp shells, and cook, stirring, until chiles turn black and shells turn pink, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chiles and shells to a square of cheesecloth. Tie securely with kitchen twine, and return to saucepan.

Remove green parts and hard outer layers from lemongrass, slice lengthwise in half, and lightly bruise. Add stock, and bring to a boil. Add galangal, lemongrass, cilantro roots or stems, kaffir-lime leaves, and fresh chiles. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and let spices infuse the stock for 15 to 20 minutes.

Stir in salt and fish sauce. Taste, and adjust for seasoning. Add mushrooms, raise heat to high, and boil for 10 minutes.

Remove cheesecloth pouch, lemongrass, and kaffir-lime leaves; discard. Add shrimp, and cook just until pink, 1 to 2 minutes. Add roasted chiles in oil. Taste, and adjust for seasoning. Remove from heat, and stir in lime juice. Taste again; there should be an equal balance of spicy, salty, and sour flavors. Garnish with cilantro, and serve immediately.

This recipe yields 4 to 6 servings.

Comments: Serve this soup with basmati or Thai jasmine rice. Serrano and de arbol and chiles, galangal, lemongrass, cilantro roots, kaffir-lime leaves, and nam pla can be found in Asian markets and specialty stores.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.