Instructions: In a large saucepan, cook the bacon until lightly crisped. Add the onions, celery and leeks and cook over medium-low heat until translucent, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the brown sugar and cook 3 minutes longer.

Stir in the jerk seasoning and cayenne. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then add the fish stock and tomatoes. Bring just to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer uncovered for 30 minutes. Add the tarragon and salt to taste; cover to keep hot.

Heat the butter in a medium skillet, add the shrimp and fish and cook over medium heat until just opaque through. Add the crab and stir gently until heated.

Distribute the seafood among shallow soup bowls. Ladle the hot soup base over and garnish with croutons and green onions, if desired.

This recipe yields 2 to 4 servings.

Comments:
This recipe is chef Siebers alternative to conch chowder, a hallmark Keys dish. Abundant shrimp, snapper and stone crab replace the over-fished conch, which is no longer caught in Florida waters.

Jerk seasoning - a quintessential element of Jamaican cooking - is becoming more commonly available throughout the country. Look for it in the gourmet spice section of the supermarket or in specialty shops.

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