Instructions: In a bowl, mix 2 cups flour, baking powder, 2 tablespoons sugar, and salt.

Cut 1/4 cup butter into chunks; add to bowl. With your fingers or a pastry blender, rub or cut in butter until dough forms pieces no larger than small peas.

In a small bowl, beat eggs with cream to blend; set aside 1 tablespoon. Add remaining liquid to flour mixture and stir with a fork just until dough is evenly moistened and sticks together.

Scrape dough onto a lightly floured board; turn over to coat with flour.

To knead, gently slide your fingers under side of dough opposite you, and lift and fold about half the dough over the portion on the board. Press down gently and push slightly forward.

Rotate the dough 90 degrees so a pointed end is in front of you. Again slide your fingers under the farthest point and lift and fold about half the dough over the portion on the board. Press down gently and push slightly forward again. Keep turning and kneading just until dough forms a neat ball, 3 or 4 more times.

In a buttered, floured 10- by 15-inch pan, pat dough into a 1-inch-thick round. With a floured sharp knife, cut round into 6 to 8 equal wedges and leave in place.

Dust your thumb with flour and push it straight down and almost through the middle of the wide end of each wedge, wiggling to make a hole that is 1/2- to 3/4-inch wide. Divide jam equally among the holes. Brush reserved egg mixture over dough and sprinkle evenly with 2 to 3 teaspoons sugar.

Bake in a 375 degree oven until richly browned, about 25 minutes (350 degrees in a convection oven). Serve hot.

This recipe yields 6 to 8 servings.

Comments: Quick breads, leavened with baking powder (and sometimes baking soda), are so named because all you do is mix and bake. No need to knead - except for biscuits and scones. For these breakfast favorites, you knead the dough just enough to create layers that separate slightly during baking (too much kneading makes them tough).

At the Grand Central Baking Company in Portland one day, I settled on the Jammer, a big, flaky biscuit with a well of jam in the center, recalling teaching my own daughter how to jam her thumb into the dough to make the sweet pockets.

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