Instructions: In a large stockpot over medium heat, fry the bacon until it begins to crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan and set aside.

Add the oil to the bacon drippings in the pot. Add the onion and celery and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the turnip, squash, potato, garlic and thyme and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the fish stock or clam juice and the tomatoes, bring the mixture to a boil and simmer just until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper to taste. Bring the soup to a boil. If using clams or mussels, add them and continue cooking until shells open.

Turn off the heat, add the shrimp or fish, cover and let sit until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove clam or mussel shells, if desired. Sprinkle with the bacon and parsley and serve immediately.

This recipe yields 6 servings.

Comments: Ann Cashion, chef and owner of the recently opened Johnnys Halfshell near Dupont Circle and Cashions Eat Place in Adams-Morgan, recently demonstrated the preparation of this simple summer chowder. She recommends varying the ingredients according to personal preference or availability, substituting, for example, green beans cut into 1-inch pieces or kohlrabi for the turnip or potato.

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