Instructions: For chipotle creme fraiche: Combine Port, wine, chilies, and tomato paste in heavy small saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to thick paste, stirring often, about 12 minutes. Transfer to small bowl; cool. Fold in creme fraiche. Cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 1 week.

For soup: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush baking sheet with oil. Place squash halves, cut-side down, on prepared sheet. Bake squash until very tender, about 1 hour. Scoop squash from skins.

Measure 6 cups squash and transfer to large pot (reserve any remaining squash for another use). Add broth and chestnuts to pot. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer soup uncovered until chestnuts are very tender, about 30 minutes.

Mix maple syrup into soup. Puree soup in batches in blender until very smooth; return to same pot. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Refrigerate until cold, then cover and keep refrigerated.)

Rewarm soup. Ladle into bowls. Top each serving with chipotle creme fraiche.

This recipe yields 10 to 12 servings.

Comments: In this luscious soup, the restaurant uses a squash that is relatively new to the American market: the kabocha, a beautiful jade-green winter squash with deep orange flesh. Chipotle chilies canned in a spicy tomato sauce, sometimes called adobo, are available at Latin American markets, specialty foods stores, and some supermarkets.

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