Instructions: The 90s have sprouted a vegetable renaissance in this country and what was old is new again. Americans are discovering what Northern Europeans have known for centuries-the delicacy of the kohlrabi. its mildly sweet, chestnut-like flavor makes it a wonderful addition to any dinner table.

The kohlrabi bulb is crisp and crunchy when raw, while its tender, nonfibrous pulp takes on a smoother texture when cooked. its leaves are also edible, raw or cooked. Besides being tasty and versatile, the kohlrabi is economical and, above all, healthy.

In 1554, a German botanist coined the name kohlrabi, which means "cabbage turnip." Like the turnip and the beet, kohlrabi is among the greens that are bred primarily for their roots. However, unlike other greens that are members of the cabbage family such as broccoli, kale and collards, kohlrabi has a bulb that grows above ground. The bulb, which is actually a thickened root, averages between 2" and 3" in diameter with leaves that grow 15in to 18in long. The stems (also called "cords") grow on all sides, encircling the entire vegetable with the leaves reaching upwards.

Actually, a kohlrabi somewhat resembles the suspended basket of a hot air balloon.

Kohlrabi is one of the more nutritious vegetables in the cabbage family Not only is it an excellent source of potassium, but it also contains natural enzymes that aid digestion and significant amounts of the bone building minerals-calcium, phosphorus and iron. Kohlrabi is chock full of fiber and low in fat. It is nearly a "calorie-free" food, because one cup of raw kohlrabi contains only 38 calories. One cup also supplies more than 100% of the Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA) for vitamin C.]

PICKING THE BEST

Kohlrabi is widely available from May through November and a few markets offer it year-round. Select kohlrabis that look crisp and fresh, and avoid those with wilted or yellow leaves. Medium-size bulbs (2" in diameter) can be eaten raw if their thin skins are peeled. Larger bulbs may be woody, so peel and use them in soups or stews just as you would larger onions and turnips. Avoid bulbs that are split or cracked.

A kohlrabi bulb can keep for up to two weeks if you trim off its stems and leaves and store it in a cool, dark place like a root cellar or seal it in a plastic bag and refrigerate it. Unwashed leaves placed in a paper bag and refrigerated will remain fresh for two to three days. Both bulbs and leaves freeze well. Simply blanch the bulbs for five minutes and the leaves for three. Seal them in separate plastic bags before freezing.

COOKING KOHLRABI

The bulbs of kohlrabi can be used instead of turnips or even potatoes, and its leaves can be prepared with other leafy vegetables like spinach or kale. One medium-size bulb generally yields one serving. When ready to use, rinse it under cold running water to dislodge any dirt and cut the stems off close to the bulb. Boil, steam or blanch a whole bulb in salted water for 20 to 30 minutes and a sliced or chopped one for 15 minutes.

Microwaving is especially easy. Simply slice the bulb and place it in a covered dish with two tablespoons of water. Cook on high for four to five minutes, stirring once, and let rest for five minutes. Drain and serve.

Although the leaves can be eaten raw, they can also be cooked like other greens. Microwave the green leaves for five minutes with only the water that clings to them after washing. Sprinkle cooked leaves with a little sea salt to help retain their bright green color.

Simple recipes for this tasty vegetable abound. Thinly sliced and deep-fried kohlrabis make tasty chips for dipping. Small kohlrabi bulbs

(about 1" in diameter) do not need to be peeled; just grate them and serve them raw in a salad. Pickled bulbs make an unusual side dish. Or try serving kohlrabi as a turnover. just steam the whole bulbs briefly with apple wedges and a pinch of ground cloves, wrap them both in pastry dough and bake. Seasonings that complement kohlrabis especially well are dill, cumin, tarragon and fennel seeds.

A splurge of savory dishes awaits those willing to try this root vegetable that is finally getting the recognition it deserves. Livening up a stew or featured as an entree, kohlrabi adds just the right amount of sparkle to your dining experience.

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