Instructions: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour two 3- by 10-inch loaf pans. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat eggs and granulated sugar until mixture holds a ribbon-like trail on the surface when you raise the whisk, 3 to 5 minutes. Add vanilla and lemon zest; beat to combine. Sift a third of the flour over the batter; gently fold in with a rubber spatula. Add remaining flour in two more batches. Fold in melted butter.

Divide batter evenly between pans. Place pans on a baking sheet; transfer to oven. Bake until cakes pull away from sides of pans, 50 to 55 minutes. Transfer pans to wire rack set over a baking sheet, let cool 5 minutes. Invert pans, releasing cakes. Trim tops of cakes level with a serrated knife. Place cakes top-sides-down on rack.

Combine apricot jam and cognac in a small saucepan. Set over medium-low heat; cook 3 minutes. Set a fine sieve over a small bowl. Using a rubber spatula, press on solids, passing glaze through sieve. Brush tops and sides of cakes with apricot glaze. Let glaze set.

In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners sugar, 1 tablespoon water, and the lemon juice. Pour second glaze over cakes, letting it run down the sides. Let set; serve.

Makes 2 cakes.

Yield: 2 cakes

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