Instructions: You might call this combination of leeks, ginger and shrimp a stir-fry because the technique is similar to that used in making many Chinese classics.

But the proportions are unusual; there is almost none of the traditional sauce; and it is actually better served with bread than with rice.

This is a less-is-more dish, with little guile.

It began as a traditional stir-fry, but when I recognized that the softened leeks were the highlight, I adjusted the proportions so the leeks dominated. You take two bites of leeks for every shrimp.

I also boosted the amount of ginger and, by undercooking it, left it slightly crunchy, so that its presence is forceful. The result is a flavorful medium for the shrimp (you could use scallops, tofu, chunks of chicken or pork, or slices of beef) that emphasizes one of the first vegetables to be harvested each spring.

For a touch more juice and another flavor element, you might add a bit of stock, sherry or soy sauce to the pan. Lime juice or sesame oil works, too.

If you want to make the dish more traditional and a bit more complicated, you could substitute minced garlic for half the ginger and finish it with the stock, sherry, soy sauce or sesame oil, alone or in combination. Or just use a few tablespoons of hoisin sauce. I liked these variations, but as I tinkered with the dish, I realized that I preferred the original.

here we go:
1/4 cup peanut or olive oil
4 large leeks, about 3 pounds, chopped
1 1/2 to 2 pounds peeled medium shrimp (about 20-24 to the pound)

1/4 cup minced ginger
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon good stock, dry sherry or soy sauce (optional)

Put half the oil in a large skillet, preferably non-stick, and turn heat to high. When a bit of smoke appears, add leeks, all at once. Let sit for a couple minutes, then cook, stirring only occasionally, for about 10 minutes. When leeks dry out and begin to brown, remove from pan and set aside.

With heat still on high, add remaining oil to pan, immediately followed by shrimp. Sprinkle with ginger. Cook for about a minute, then stir. Cook, stirring every minute or so, until shrimp are almost all pink, about 5 minutes. Return leeks to pan, along with salt and pepper. When shrimp are done, stir in liquid if desired, taste and adjust seasoning, and serve.

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