Instructions: Preheat oven to 325 degrees, with a rack in center. Heat kettle of water to boiling. Butter 13-by-9 inch baking dish and set in a larger pan.

Spread rice in baking dish. (Note: For more custardy texture, use 1 1/2 cups cooked rice; for a stiffer consistency, use up to 3 cups rice.) Heat milk in large saucepan until small bubbles appear around edges. Beat eggs and sugar with whisk or mixer until foamy. Gradually stir hot milk into eggs. Add lemon zest and vanilla.

Pour half of milk mixture into baking dish and gently stir to combine with rice. Carefully pour on remaining milk mixture. Sprinkle top evenly with nutmeg.

Place baking dish in oven and add enough boiling water to larger pan to come halfway up sides of baking dish. Bake until custard is almost set and edges are golden, about 1 hour, 15 minutes. Cool in water bath. Spoon or cut into squares and serve at room temperature or chilled.

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