Instructions: You can make them perfectly - and its easier than pie

Pie-making intimidates me. The expectations are high, and the thought of putting an imperfect pie on the table seems downright un-American.

Tarts, however, are another matter.

First, there is just one crust to focus on. Because tart pans are shallow, we dont have to worry about a filling reducing and shrinking, leaving the top crust balanced precariously on thin air. And best of all, there is no need to crimp a crust to wavy patterns of perfection.

To make the perfect tart crust:
Store shortening in the refrigerator so its chilled for use in pastries.

On warm, humid days, chill the flour for the pastries about 10 minutes before cutting in the fat. This prevents the dough from becoming sticky.

Dry measure cups are essential for accuracy in making doughs.

When fat is incorporated into the flour, there should be both large crumbs, which give flakiness, and small crumbs, which give tenderness.

When cutting the butter and shortening into the dry ingredients with a food processor, transfer the mixture to a bowl before working in the liquid.

(Overworking dough in a processor is easy to do, and will make the crust tough and less flaky.)

Unbleached flour may require more liquid.

To blend the liquid into the pastry, never use a spoon, which mashes the dough and makes it tough. Use a table fork instead.

To judge if a dough has absorbed enough liquid, press it against the sides of the bowl. If it forms a mass, the dough is ready.

Rolling and shaping the crust

Chilling the dough at least 30 minutes before rolling helps distribute moisture evenly, so there is less chance of cracking when shaping. A good rolling pin with a smooth surface is essential. Both a 12 inch American ball-bearing pin or a straight French pin 17 to 19 inches in length are dependable choices.

Dough should be rolled about 1/8 inch thick for tarts, and 1/16 inch thick for tartlets. If the pastry cracks when rolled, it is either too cold or did not have enough liquid in it. Use a long, thin spatula to occasionally loosen and lift the dough while rolling. Toss a bit of flour under the surface and rotate for an even crust.

Keep the rolling surface clean. If the dough is not expanding when rolled, it has probably stuck and needs a bit more flour on the rolling surface.

Scraps of dough can be refrigerated for about 10 minutes or until firm.

Re-roll immediately, or freeze for later use.

Tart pans have removable bottoms and come in all sizes and shapes. To decide how large to roll your crust, measure the inside of the pan with a flexible tape measure. Beginning at one edge, measure down the side, across the bottom and up the other side, then add an extra inch.

Before lining a tart pan with the dough, lightly spray the pan with cooking spray to ensure that the pastry wont stick. (A heavy spray will cause the pastry to slip downward when baked.)

When the crust is ready to be fitted into the pan, fold it loosely into quarters. Place the point in the center of the pan and unfold the dough, pressing lightly into the sides. Then roll a rolling pin over the pan edge for a clean cut. Use dough scraps to patch any cracks.

Baking the crust

Crusts for tarts always should be baked without the filling, known as blind-baking. Pastry weights can be found in kitchen shops, but dry beans also work well.

Line the pastry with a piece of aluminum foil and spread a thin layer of weights or beans in the bottom. (Once dry beans have been used as weights, they can be saved and reused only for blind baking. Do not eat them.)

Spread the weights evenly on the bottom and sides of the pan. Dont fill the pan with weights, which would pull up the pastry when the foil is removed.

Preheat the oven at 425 degrees for 20 minutes. Bake the crust on the lowest rack for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and let sit a few minutes before removing the foil and weights. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue baking five to 10 minutes.

Tips for filling tarts

To prevent the custard filling from spilling, arrange the solid ingredients in the pastry-lined tart pan and place the pan on a baking sheet. Put into the preheated oven and, using a measuring cup, pour the custard into the pan.

When using a custard filling, fully bake the tart shell to ensure a crisp bottom. The filling will protect the pastry from over-baking.

Custard-style fillings are done when they puff in the center and are lightly browned. You can test by inserting a knife in the center, which should come out clean.

Poultry, fish, meat and vegetables should be precooked before putting into the tart shell. If the top of the filling begins to dry out when baked, cover loosely with a piece of aluminum foil.

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