Instructions: Mangoes, a member of the cashew family of flowering plants, originated 5,000 years ago in India. Now, the fruit brightens all manner of foods - from California cuisine to Thai dishes to Latin specialties.

In The Great Mango Book (Ten Speed Press, $14.95), Miami chef Allen Susser, one of the inventors of New World Cuisine, a blend of American, Caribbean and Latin flavors, shows how to make the most of a variety of mangoes, from the Ah Ping, which originated in Molokai, Hawaii, and has a pronounced peach flavor with a hint of rose, to the Zill, one of the first Florida-grown varieties to gain prominence around the world. It became a favorite for dehydrating because of its deep orange color.

Susser tells how to choose mangoes: Most Indian and Southeast Asian varieties have little fiber compared with Caribbean, Latin and Floridian varieties. The less fiber, the more custard-like the texture. More fibrous mangoes, however, usually have more bite and mouth appeal. and he shows how to cook with both ripe and green mangoes, in sweet and savory dishes. Green mangoes can be immature (picked early so they will never become ripe and sweet) or mature (grown to full maturity on the tree before being picked).

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