Instructions: The recipe in Jane and Michael Sterns occasionally-precious SQUARE MEALS makes a dead good creamy rice pudding. They call it

RECIPE ANNOTATIONS FROM ME, after careful experimentation:

Note 1: Use arborio rice for best results.

Note 2: 1/2 t salt

Note 3: 1/2 C sugar is more than enough

Note 4: This dessert, always a favorite in our house, became
*even better*

when, after moving to San Francisco, I began making it with the extra-rich milk available here. To get the same effect, add a tablespoon or two of cream to regular whole milk. Do not make rice pudding or bread pudding with skim milk. The flavors come off wrong and the smoothness doesnt develop properly.

Note 5: Raisins are optional. We leave them out, having negotiated the

"Bread pudding-rice pudding truce" years ago, in which bread pudding has raisins and rice pudding does not. If you do use raisins, use the yellow ones, for a more harmonious appearance and softer taste.

COOKING DIRECTIONS: Combine rice, water, and salt in saucepan and simmer 3 minutes. Add sugar and milk and bring to a slow simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally. [NOTE: I stir constantly, same as for risotto or custards, to prevent sticking. It doesnt mar the end product at all.]

Cook, uncovered, 30 minutes, or until the milk is absorbed. Cool.

[If you are very greedy, you can stop right here. You have an edible, creamy rice pudding; stir in the cream and heat it a bit longer for best quickie results.]

Soak raisins in water until they are plump.

Preheat oven to 300 deg F. Butter a 1 1/2 quart baking dish.

Whisk egg yolks with cream and vanilla. Combine with cooled rice and mix well. Drain the raisins and mix with rice. Turn into baking dish and sprinkle with nutmeg or cinnamon. Bake, uncovered, until set at edges but still creamy inside (about 25 minutes, [depending on your oven, do keep an eye on it]).

Gently heat (microwave) 1 cup heavy cream to lukewarm and pour on top. [You can leave the nutmeg off the pudding and stir it into the cream, with a little vanilla.]

[Delicious by itself or with fresh fruit such as peaches, juicy ripe strawberries, apricots.]

/DESSERTS

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