Instructions: Place the garlic in a small saucepan with the butter then leave it on the gentlest heat possible to melt and infuse for 30 minutes. Thinly pare and discard the skins of the potatoes and cut them into evensized chunks or cut any large potatoes into quarters and small ones into halves.

Place the potatoes in a steamer then pour some boiling water straight from the kettle into a saucepan.

Fit the steamer over sprinkle the potatoes with 1 dessertspoon of salt put a lid on and let them steam for 20 to 25 minutes until tender in the centre when tested with a skewer.

Remove them transfer to a large bowl (preferably a warm one) and cover with a cloth to absorb some of the steam.

With an electric hand whisk switch to slow and begin to break up the potatoes then add the butter and garlic some black pepper and a handful of the grated cheese.

Switch the speed to high and continue adding the cheese a handful at a time while you whisk.

Theres a lot of cheese but what will happen is that as you whisk it in the potatoes will rum translucent and glossy and as you lift and whisk it will form stiff glossy peaks. When all the cheese is in serve very quickly.

Note: As the cheese goes in the mixture becomes stiff and clings to the whisk but keep going and it will part company with the whisk eventually. Also if you want to keep it warm place the bowl over a pan of simmering water but dont leave it too long.

Marinated steak recipe (qv) is the perfect accompaniment but its also great with sausages.

I first ate this mashed potato with cheese in southwest France in the Tarn region and it was quite simply the best mashed potato Ive ever eaten. Research on my return revealed that it involved a special lovely cheese called Cantal not generally available but after many experiments 1 have I think come up with something comparable made with farmhouse Lancashire which has a lovely fresh lactic flavour.

Serves 2

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