Instructions: * Note: This can also be made with leg of lamb meat and lamb neck bones or veal tenderloin and veal knuckle bones. When you buy soup bones, ask for ones with some meat on them for a more flavorful stock. If the bones are big, ask the butcher to crack them (or pick out smaller bones for more flavor).

Place the bones in a large saucepot. Add enough cold water to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer 5 minutes. Drain and rinse the bones under cold water; set aside. Rinse the pot to remove any sediment.

Set the pot over medium-high heat and add 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes; reduce the heat to low and continue cooking until the onions are golden, 10 minutes more. Stir occasionally to keep the onions from burning.

Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the paprika. Add the rinsed bones and 6 cups of water. Add the bay leaf, thyme sprig and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, 1 hour. Skim the broth to remove any sediment while cooking. Remove the bones, bay leaf and thyme from the broth and skim off any fat or sediment. (The broth can be refrigerated at this point for up to three days. If the broth has been refrigerated, heat it to a simmer and proceed.)

Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, partially covered, until slightly thickened, 15 minutes. Add salt to taste.

In a heavy skillet, brown the meat in the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat until the meat is medium-rare, 2 to 3 minutes.

Spoon the broth into 4 large shallow bowls. Spoon the meat into the center of each bowl and surround with it steamed vegetables. Spoon the noodles on the side. Sprinkle with cracked black pepper and fresh thyme.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Variations: Start with the master beef stew broth (make it ahead and freeze it if you like), then vary the finishing elements to create vastly different dishes.

Provencal:
Steamed vegetables: baby yellow squash and haricots verts

Starch: white beans

Garnish: lemon slices and thyme sprigs

Tuscan:
Steamed vegetables: asparagus tips and strips of red and orange bell pepper

Starch: polenta

Garnish: olives and tarragon leaves

Eastern European:
Steamed vegetables: shiitake, cremini and oyster mushrooms, and red chard

Starch: barley

Garnish: fresh sage or rosemary

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