Instructions: Meatloaf is much maligned, but almost everybody likes it. Occasionally, we long for it. Truck stop diners and upscale bistros alike sell loads of it.

But meatloaf can mean 10 different things to 10 different people.

Here at FOODday (Portland Oregonian, January 17, 2001), we all make meatloaf, too. And we have 10 different recipes. Some are down-home economical, some are classy. One is a vegetarian loaf. They call for an array of ingredients, including cream of tomato soup, mozzarella cheese, ham, chopped nuts and oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes.

Some who have pleasant memories of Moms recipe use hers. Others have a cookbook favorite or have devised their own. Some recipes betray the Midwestern origins of several of us.

In fact, for a conversation starter, try these questions:

Should it be ground beef only or a mixture of meats?

Should meatloaf be a planned meal or ad lib?

Is meatloaf better eaten hot or the next day in cold sandwiches (with mustard, horseradish or mayonnaise)?

Should it be made in a loaf pan or free-form?

Does it need ketchup or a brown sugar glaze on top?

Should it be served 1950s-style with mashed potatoes and gravy and canned green beans, or with baked potatoes and a green salad? and what about the extender ingredient - bread crumbs, crackers or oatmeal?

These are issues that may never be resolved. But you might find a new family favorite among ours.

o Double a meatloaf recipe, make two loaves and freeze one uncooked for future use. For best flavor, use within six months.

o Cook frozen uncooked meatloaf as you would fresh loaves, but 1 1/2 to two times longer. Use a thermometer to test for doneness.

o For a meatloaf with a crustier exterior, hand-shape the meat mixture, and bake in a shallow baking pan. Brushing the top of meatloaf with water before baking will minimize cracking.

o For easier slicing, let meatloaf stand five to 10 minutes after removing it from the oven.

o Drain any liquid that accumulates in the pan before serving.

o Refrigerate leftover meatloaf promptly and use within four to five days, or freeze for longer storage.

o To cook meatloaf in a microwave oven, shape the raw meat into a round and pack lightly into a 9 inch glass baking dish. Make a well in the center and place a microwavable custard cup or empty glass open side down in the center of the dish.

To promote browning, brush the top with a sweet sauce such as barbecue sauce or ketchup. Cover the meat with a glass lid or with plastic food wrap (pull one corner away from the pan to release steam).

For a 1 1/2-pound loaf, microwave on medium (50 percent power) for about 15 minutes, then microwave 5 minutes more on high. Check in several parts of the loaf with meat thermometer for doneness; some microwave ovens heat unevenly and parts of the loaf may be more done than others.

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