Instructions: Place the oven rack on the lowest rung. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter and lightly flour a dozen large madeleine shells (or muffin tins). In a large, grease-free mixing bowl (not one of copper this time)

beat the egg whites with the pinch of salt at a slow steady speed. When they begin to stiffen, gradually add the sugar. Beat in the vanilla extract. Continue to beat for a few minutes, until the meringue will form soft peaks. With a rubber spatula fold in the flour, in six additions.

Fold in the melted butter quickly, but only about a teaspoon at a time.

Use a large spoon to fill the prepaed madeleine shells. (This batter must be used at once or the butter will separate.) Bake the madeleines at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes, until they are browned and the tops spring back when touched lightly. Remove the tray of shells from the oven.

Turn the madeleines onto a wire rack, or directly onto a serving platter or into a basket. They should fall right from the tins (use a knife to loosen them if necessary) and are best eaten right away while they are warm from the oven.

Yield: 12 madeleines.

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