Instructions: Heat oven to 400 degrees. Butter a shallow 2-quart baking dish. Set aside.

In a medium-size heavy-bottom saucepan, combine rice, 3 cups milk, 1/4 cup sugar, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until thick and creamy, about 30 minutes.

In a liquid measuring cup, whisk together the egg yolks, remaining milk, and 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract. Stir into rice. Add raisins and cinnamon. Cook until raisins are heated through, about 2 minutes. Pour rice mixture into the prepared baking dish. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites until foamy. Increase speed to high, and gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar, cream of tartar, and vanilla. Beat until stiff but not dry, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a rubber spatula, spoon meringue on top of the rice, covering entirely.

Transfer to the oven, and bake until the meringue is golden brown, about 5 minutes. To store the rice pudding, use plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming.

This recipe yields 10 servings.

Comments: The key to good rice pudding is its texture. So for the best rice pudding, cook it slowly. Overcooked pudding will have the texture of a solid mass rather than the creamy mixture that makes this dessert so desirable. And never use precooked rices or rices labeled "instant" or "minute." Short-grained or medium-grained rices work best. Try basmati, jasmine, or popcorn rice for even more variety. Each type will impart its own unique flavor to your pudding. One way to cool rice quickly is to drain it into a sieve and place it over a bowl. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke the rice from time to time to release the steam.

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