Instructions: Grate 1 tablespoon peel and ream 1 cup juice from lemons; set aside.

Combine gelatin and 1/4 cup cold water; set aside until gelatin is softened, about 5 minutes.

In a 2- to 3-quart pan over high heat, bring sugar and 1 cup water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until sugar is dissolved, about 1 minute.

Stir in gelatin, lemon peel and juice, and milk (mixture may look curdled). Place pan in a bowl of ice water and stir often until cold, 8 to 10 minutes.

Freeze mixture in an ice cream maker according to manufacturers directions. (Or pour mixture into a metal 9- by 13-inch pan, cover airtight, and freeze until hard, about 3 hours. Then break into chunks with a spoon and whirl in a food processor until smooth.)

Serve sherbet, or freeze until firm enough to scoop, about 2 hours.

This recipe yields 5 1/2 cups, 10 servings.

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